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So, I pressed the upper cuts of both cups and now they are ready to be attached to the corset.
I take the corset body. I fold it in half and check that all tunnels are evenly spaced and everything is symmetric and identical.
I arrange the cups correctly and determine where the right and the left cups are.
Now I will demonstrate the outward stitching techniques of the cup when the bone casing under the cup is on the right side of the corset. The bone casing serves as the tunnel for the metallic bone.
First of all, I recommend checking the accuracy of the sewing lines for both cups. Both lines should be in equal distances from the vertical curves.
I arrange the cup and the corset wrong sides together. I align and pin the scalloped edge with the cup edge. Next, I combine the curves of the cup and the corset and try to arrange them so that the tunnels of the corset and the cup form a single line. I pin the other edge of the cup with the upper edge of the front center piece.
After that, I distribute the entire cup circumference along the cradle seam allowance. Soft mesh and cutting on bias on the round cradle allow stretching seam allowance and there is no need to additionally incise it. You should incise seam allowance on the cradle area if you sew the corset body from thick fabrics, so that it spreads along the cup circumference. There are notches on the cradle to align with the cup horizontal seam and they show where to place the upper piece. They will help to join both cups symmetrically and evenly. It is not hard to pin the cup in its place, but is requires a lot of attention, care and accuracy. Take your time as this operation affects the final appearance of the ready corset.
I will sew the cup from the corset body. Let’s sew. It is compulsory to make bar tacks at the start and the end.
Analyze the quality of the inserted cup. Our cup is perfect: the cup edge coincides with the scalloped edge. The cup edge coincides with the upper edge in the center. Let’s check the wrong side. The cup curve coincides with the corset curve.
Before sewing the bone casing over seam allowance of the cup stitching, I suggest stitching the second cup. We have to make sure that all notches and lines are at the same level with the first cup. The second cup is joined in a similar way.
So, both cups are inserted and the seam allowance is folded on the face.
I take the bone casing, place it over seam allowance face up and leave an auxiliary tip of 1.5-2 cm.
I hold the seam allowance and the bone casing, lift the garment slightly, release the seam allowance and move the corset to have only the seam allowance and the casing in the sewing machine. I place the bone casing in a similar way as we stitched it to the curves. It means I try to make sure that the future sewing seam of the casing goes over the cup sewing seam. So, the casing edge should overlap the stitching by 1mm and the joining stitch is also made in 1mm from the casing edge. I make bar tacks at the start and the end.
I fold the corset inward to leave the seam allowance open and stitch the bone casing. I want to remind you again to sew carefully, attentively and without haste. The seam should be even.
I make a bar tack and cut the casing, leaving a small auxiliary tip of 1.5-2 cm.
My congratulations! We attached the bone casing with the first stitching line.
Now we should trim the seam allowance under the bone casing to avoid the additional thickness. Most importantly, the seam allowance should be narrower than the bone casing.
I carefully fold and flatten the garment under the casing, turn the tape on the corset and make the second parallel stitching line. There are bar tacks at the start and the end. Be careful: different thickness under the bone casing will interfere with your sewing and the presser foot may jump off.
I will do the same operation with the second cup.
Here is a little hint. It is much easier to make the second stitching line along the bone casing on the second cup (to have the symmetricity with the first cup) if you sew on the wrong side against the light.
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