Connecting the Parts of the Cups | Sewing Bustier Corset #7

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Now let’s join the cup pieces.

I take the outer lower cup pattern, cut seam allowance along the curve 2-3 and mark this curve seam on the piece directly.

I take the second lower cup and the neoprene edge in the curve 2-3 is applied to the marked line. I pin the pieces. For convenience I pin at angle so that I can remove them easily while sewing.

Now my task is to stitch these pieces. It is possible to make one central stitching line, two stitching lines in several millimeters from each other or to make a zigzag stitching on a household sewing machine.

I turn the pieces with the wrong side facing and stitch in 2-3 mm from the neoprene edge.

I remove pins and trim the lace seam allowance. You can certainly ask: why did we provide for this seam allowance if we are cutting it now? The thing is if lace has sparse threads like fringe, it will be very hard to tuck it into the machine seam. The thread will go out and you will waste your time and energy for this simple operation. It is easy to stitch loose or sparse lace with additional seam allowance and to cut the excess later.

Now I am making the second stitching line on the right side of the cup to secure this seam. A small tip of seam allowance from the corner should be cut off to have the even cuts.

This is how this seam looks.

I will do almost the same with the upper cup. I take the pattern, cut off seam allowance between the points 1 and 2, place the pattern to the cup piece and draw a line. You can repeat this operation with the pattern of the inner lower cup, but I will do it by eye.

I connect the notch on the center of the upper foam piece with the lower curve, connect the points 1-1 and join the pieces along the points 4-4 on the other side of the horizontal seam. I arrange the upper piece according to the position of the lower piece, guided by the marked line, and pin. I also add additional seam allowance on the upper lace piece for the same reasons I discussed earlier.

I join the pieces in a similar way. I make the stitchingon the wrong side in 2 mm from the piece edge.

I remove pins and make the second parallel stitching line on the right side of the cup. By the way, I use very thin stainless butterfly collector pins. These pins are super thin and super sharp. They are very convenient to work with thin fabrics. Please pay attention that I don’t cut the excess lace for now. If the lace edge had thread fringe, it would be easy to grab it and sew with additional seam allowance.

And now we can cut the lace excess.

This is the blank cup we have now.

Now we need to make stitching to secure lace and neoprene together. I start and finish stitching without bar tacks in 2-3 mm from the top on both sides of the cup. The strengthening stitch line is made in the presser foot’s width from the cup edge.

I remove basting from the entire cup.

Now our task is to cover the stitching with the bone casing. First I will cover the curves and then the horizontal seam.

I place the bone casing over the seam to completely cover it. I place the bone casing over the seam with its one side going out by 1 mm over the cup edge, which is placed over it.

I leave the auxiliary tip and make stitching without a bar tack in 2 mm from the edge of the bone casing. I cut the bone casing at the level of the second horizontal stitching line.

I turn the garment and stitch on the second side.

Now I can cut the auxiliary tip off.

I do the same with the horizontal seam. The bone casing overlaps the seam by 1 mm. I make two stitching lines without bar tacks. I cut the casing.