Oscars 2022 - Gowns Sewing Review. Part 1.
The 94th Academy Awards took place in Hollywood.
This year, guests and nominees overwhelmingly gave their preference to the classics.
Unlike last year, there were few crop top dresses. And there were only few defiant necklines.
This suggests that the pandemic thirst to “break free” has passed and fashion trends are returning to their framework.
Using the examples of three dresses from the top fashion houses, I will show how any Corset Academy student, will cope with the creation of these outfits. Our learning program has all the necessary sewing patterns and tools for adjusting patterns, the exact sewing techniques and a huge library of decoration tutorials for making these exact gowns.
Three completely different looks, but in terms of design and sewing technique, they are exactly the same.
The difference is only in the cut of the skirts and in minor differences in their processing.
The individuality of dresses is determined by the way they are finished and decorated.
Now I will show how, based on a standard pattern with a straight neckline, it is easy and quick to draft patterns for these dresses.
Next to the photo, I posted a technical drawing of the inner base, which is hidden under the drapery, under the ruffles, or under the appliqué organza.
1. Stephanie Beatriz in a black Dior Haute Couture gown with one dramatic sleeve and twisted detail at the spaghetti straps.
For the drapery to retain its shape, it needs a foundation.
The first basic foundation is a lining with an inner bodice. Most likely, the lacing in this dress was replaced with a zipper in the side seam, so we can only talk about the bodice design. Or, in other words, about a corset made using simplified technique with minimum boning.
The second basis for drapery is a chiffon dress with one shoulder and one sleeve.
For its cutting, you can take a standard pattern of the shoulder base, changing it to fit your size using the software. Or to draft a drawing according to your measurements and to alter it according to the body type.
Advanced tutorials on drafting and adjusting a pattern to suit a specific shape have recently been added to the main curriculum.
After the pattern of the shoulder base is ready, it is necessary to model a dress with one strap.
Take a pattern for a dress with a straight neckline.
To get a pattern of a bodice dress with a straight silhouette, it is enough to lower the perpendiculars down from the hip line to the required length of the skirt.
To get a dress with one shoulder strap, you need to take the patterns of the center of the front and back in a spread and apply model lines. Unnecessary parts should be cut off.
After sewing a light front base with one shoulder strap, putting it on and fixing it on a bodice lining, you can begin to create a drapery.
2. Kirsten Dunst in an ultra-romantic red ruffled Christian Lacroix Haute Couture ball gown.
To get the base of the dress, you need to create the desired silhouette on the base pattern.
To do this, take the pattern of the upper part of the dress, change its size to the required one, and then complete the wedges of the skirt.
You can complete the wedges arbitrarily or by taking a ready-made A-line skirt pattern.
The top, front layer of the dress consists of a light base cut according to the same pattern.
On this basis, a drapery is formed, ruffles are sewn on, and then, it is connected to a compacted bodice lining.
3. Saniyya Sidney in a strapless Giorgio Armani Privé gown with blue and pink appliqués.
The design of this dress is practically the same as the Kirsten Dunst dress. The difference is only in the pomp of the skirt.
The designers divided the central part of the front into two wedges to increase the flare and make it more uniform along the entire hem of the skirt.
The underwired lining and the organza face layer are cut according to this single pattern. Then, the sewn lining and the face are joined in the dress and appliqués are made, decorated with embroidery.
If you want to learn in detail how to make gowns like that - join the Corset Academy VIP learning program right now!