OSCARS 2022 - Dresses Sewing Techniques Review. Part 2
Welcome to the 2nd part of the review of the dresses from the Oscars 2022 red carpet, now let's talk about dresses consisting of a corset and a skirt sewn to it.
I again want to emphasize that the design of these dresses is almost the same and the same pattern can be used to cut the boned lining. All the variety of styles is achieved by draperies, appliqués, decorative ruffles and folds.
For the review, I singled out 5 star dresses.
Before I start talking about each of them separately, I want to draw your attention to the effect of the fit of the upper neckline from the presence of a seam in the middle of the neckline.
The first two dresses have a seam in the center of the front, perhaps a tuck is hidden in them, which presses the neckline to the bust. But is it really? Find out below.
In the last three dresses, there is no central seam, so the neckline has a different fit on the figure.
The designers of these dresses did not choose such designs by chance, because. they crafted personal custom garments, based on the individual characteristics of the body of each actress.
This is what I want to devote my today's review.
1. Jennifer Garner in a Brandon Maxwell scarlet off-the-shoulder column dress with dropped draped straps.
In order to reveal Jennifer's bust, the designer decided to cut out a corner from a straight neckline. Considering that the mammary glands do not close in the center, it was necessary to press the corset to the body, marking the interthoracic depression.
In one of the lessons of the main curriculum, I show how to calculate the additional vertical tuck.
and horizontal tuck:
on the example of a pattern of the shoulder base.
For a corset pattern without straps, these tucks are determined similarly.
This is how the corset pattern for this model will look like.
The vertical tuck is completed additionally in the center, and the horizontal one is transferred to the relief tuck of the side of the front.
It must be noted here that in order to form an intersternal hollow, it is necessary to choose the technique of a lined cup or install a round metal frame under the bust.
2. Nicole Kidman wears a tailored Armani Privé dress with a pleated peplum and a crystal-studded train.
In this dress, the center seam at the front is just a technical seam that connects the two halves of the front fabric, cut along the bias. The front taffeta is set in elegant tucks.
In order to provide a stable frame to the drapery, the lining is reinforced with bones.
A good fit to the neckline is provided by an additional tuck, which is already taken into account in the pattern for the V-neck.
Therefore, if you use my finished pattern, then for such a style, you should change the pattern to fit your size and cut off all parts along the waist line.
3. Penélope Cruz in a custom-tailored long Chanel taffeta dress with an open back.
The dress of the actress was decorated with checkered graphic embroidery with the effect of "metal tweed" on the neckline and bow.
According to Chanel, the dress took 680 hours of work and 8,000 embroidered elements.
The lush bust completely fills the cup, thereby a natural fit of the neckline to the body occurs.
The central seam on the shelf has a purely decorative function. It is present only on the front layer, allowing you to join parts of the drapery.
In order to "shift" the corners of the corset to the center, it is advisable to carry out a small simulation of a standard pattern, transferring the end of the relief to the armhole.
4. Rosie Perez wears a fitted scarlet Christian Siriano spaghetti strap dress with a draped train.
I place this dress in one section with Penelope Cruz's dress, because the technical drawings of the corsets of both dresses are exactly the same.
And again, the magnificent bust is perfectly emphasized by the moderate neckline of the corset with a one-piece cup.
Busty beauties do not require special operations to form and strengthen the cup. For them, a corset / bodice, sewn even using a simplified technology, is suitable.
Also, for a lush bust, it is not recommended to allocate a hollow in the center of the shelf. That is why, in this dress there is no central seam.
Modeling remains exactly the same as in the case of the Penelope Cruz dress, only the bottom of the corset is transferred to the waist line.
Draperies and sewn-on straps create a new look of the dress.
5. Zoe Kravitz in a powder pink Saint Laurent dress with a knotted bodice and sparkling choker.
For a small bust, a straight neckline looks extremely elegant. Additional volume is given by a moderate drapery in the form of a bow.
This style does not require any cleavage, therefore, to create the base lining, you should use the upper part of the standard pattern without additional modeling.
If you want to learn in detail how to make gowns like that - join the Corset Academy VIP learning program right now!
