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Connection of Cups with Lining | Bustier Corset Sewing #8





So, the foam cups are ready.

It is compulsory to compare the symmetricity of the cups and make sure that they are similar in size and in the position of the decorative tape.

However, the upper cuts of the foam cups are not finished. I will finish the upper cut with the lining.

Let’s sew the cup lining. You probably noticed that I didn’t use an iron: we pressed neither the corset pieces nor the cups. So, all the markings made with a write-erase pen are still visible. I postpone pressing to the time when all cup lining pieces are sewn. We will press and remove all markings then.

I remove pins, which join the pieces and start arranging the cup pieces as I plan to sew.

We start from the lower cup. I arrange the piece face together along the cuts between the points 2 and 3. We will sew the pieces of both cups in this position. Then we will attach the upper cup.

I stitch the lower cup along the curve 2-3 with seam allowance of 0.7 cm. I make bar tacks at the start and the end.

According to the theory it is necessary to press seam allowances open after both pieces are stitched.

However, to save time I use the following trick: I make two parallel stitching lines along the joining seam of the pieces on both sides in 1 mm from it and open seam allowance to both directions. Not only do these stitches not spoil the look, but, on the contrary, they create a decorative finish.

Let’s attach the upper cup. Align the notches 1, 2 and 4 along the lower cut of the upper cup with the corresponding notches on the lower cup.

I place the pinned pieces in the sewing machine, so that the lower cup is on top and stitch with seam allowance of 0.7 cm. I make bar tacks at the start and the end. The pieces are easy to join if your cutting is precise and you followed strictly seam allowance.